Hermès hardware includes all the metal details on a bag: Touret, plaque, lock, key, clou (feet), zipper, D-rings, and the iconic clasps – especially the H clasp on Constance, and the center hardware of the Lindy or Picotin. Each element is crafted with precision to elevate the bag’s elegance.
- All hardware is made from solid brass, then plated with precious metals (Gold, Palladium, Rose Gold...) to match the tone and style of each bag.
- All components match within a single bag – a testament to Hermès’ perfectionism.
How to Authenticate Hermès Hardware?
Hermès uses consistent engraving techniques on plaques, locks, and zipper pulls.
Details to notice:
- “Hermès - Paris” stamped on the front plate (Birkin/Kelly)
- Laser engraving on the lock and key
- A tiny gold box with micro-etching (Gold hardware)
- Smooth H zippers and weighted locks
Cheap replicas often fail in these areas – fonts may be fuzzy, spacing off, or engraving too shallow. Experts can spot the difference in seconds.
Types of Hermès Hardware
Gold (GHW): Classic 18k gold-plated (some rare pieces 24k). Luxurious warm tone.
Palladium (PHW): Platinum-group metal, bright silver tone. Elegant and modern.
Rose Gold (RGHW): Pink hue, durable, feminine. Popular in recent years.
Brushed Gold / Palladium: Matte, modern finish with scratch resistance.
Permabrass: Soft champagne tone – mix between gold and silver.
Ruthenium: Gunmetal gray – edgy, masculine, rare.
PVD / So Black: Glossy black tone – bold and dramatic, used on So Black edition.
Diamond Hardware: 18k white gold encrusted with diamonds. Only seen on exotic bags like Himalaya.
Hermès Hardware Care
- Hermès hardware is not immune to scratches or tarnish.
- Always clean with a dry jewelry cloth – no metal polish.
- Avoid moisture, cosmetics, perfumes.
- Remove the protective film after unboxing – keeping it too long causes oxidation.
If damaged, your bag can be sent to the Hermès Spa for hardware polishing or replacement. However, hardware replacement can take up to 1 year and only certain boutiques are authorized. If the bag fails authenticity verification, it may be destroyed under French law.
Closing Note
Hermès hardware is more than decoration – it defines the soul of the bag.
Choose a piece that reflects your elegance. Or collect them all to enjoy the full range of Hermès luxury.
KNOW YOUR HERMÈS HARDWARE
Several precious metals have been used over the years to form the exquisite hardware for Hermès bags. Several have an abbreviation used within the company. The classic hardware choices are gold or palladium, with several others selected for specific seasons or special orders. Explore tone and character of each type of Hermès hardware: Classic Hermès Hardware
Gold
Referred to as GHW by Hermès insiders, gold is a classic Hermès hardware choice used widely throughout the line. Generally, 18-karat gold plating is used, though some rare styles and Hermès special order bags feature 24-karat gold. Gold hardware has the warm, lustrous shine of genuine glamor.
Palladium
Palladium (PHW) is a lustrous metal of the platinum group of metals. It is whiter and brighter than silver with a luxurious appeal. More precious than gold, palladium Hermès hardware imparts a cool contrast with brilliant pinks or vivid blues. Most limited edition Birkins and Kellys are produced only with palladium hardware.
Select Hardware:
Brushed Gold
Brushed Gold (BGHW) is 18-karat gold plating that is given a contemporary, satin finish by “brushing” micro-fine scratches into the finish in a single direction. The matte appearance is more modern than shiny gold and is less prone to scratches.
Brushed Palladium
Brushed Palladium (BPHW) is palladium treated to the same surface brushing described above. The brushed effect tones down the shine of the hardware.
Rose Gold
Rose gold (RGHW) is genuine gold mixed with a bit of copper and sometimes silver to achieve a distinctly pink-toned gold. The copper makes pink gold more durable and more resistant to scratches than the classic yellow gold. Pink gold Hermès hardware is particularly striking neutral shade leathers. Introduced relatively recently, RGHW is increasing in popularity.
Permabrass
Permabrass (PBHW) is the shade that would result from mixing gold and palladium. The champagne-toned metal gleams bright and is especially lovely with dark blues and greens.
Ruthenium
Ruthenium (RHW) is one of the rarest metals on our planet. Ruthenium Hermès hardware has a dark, gunmetal gray tone that imparts an edgier, more masculine feel than palladium. It was offered primarily on lizard Hermès bags.
PVD
PVD is a coating put on Hermès hardware that darkens the metal to nearly black. PVD has been used exclusively on Hermès avant-garde So Black collection.
Lacquer
An enamel lacquer is used primarily with Constance bags to protect the signature “H” clasp, adding color, durability and shine.
Diamond
Surely the most extraordinary of all Hermès hardware, 18-karat white gold-plated hardware is encrusted with diamonds to produce the diamond hardware. Diamond Birkin bag hardware is primarily seen with the very finest exotic skin bags like the Hermès Himalaya. “Diamond Birkins” are extremely rare and highly prized.
The hardware on Hermes products is a mixture of precious metals and is prone to oxidation, fade and develop scratches with prolonged use. Rose gold hardware tends to fade faster compared to other types of hardware.
Hermès hardware is the jewelry for your bag, enhancing its beauty and presence. Choose the hardware that best reflects your style and taste. Better yet, create a handbag collection that includes a variety of hardware.
